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Empire Zoysia Care in South East Queensland: Mowing, Feeding, Runners and Shade

Mow Empire Zoysia at 25–50 mm, feed it once a year in spring and water deeply only when it needs it. Here's how to care for an established Empire lawn in Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast, from runners and seed heads to shade.

9 min readLast reviewed By the Hancey's Turf team

Dense fine-bladed Empire Zoysia lawn in a Queensland backyard with tropical garden beds, timber edging and a timber deck

In South East Queensland, mow Empire Zoysia at 25–50 mm, using the higher end of that range in shade and going into winter. Feed it once a year in spring with a slow-release lawn fertiliser. Once established, water deeply and only when it needs it. It spreads by runners, but more slowly than couch. Purple seed heads in early spring are normal.

This Empire Zoysia care guide covers an established lawn. We grow Empire Zoysia on our farm at Woodford and deliver it across Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. If your turf went down in the last six weeks, start with our new turf starter care plan and when to mow new turf, then come back here.

Key facts: Empire Zoysia care at a glance

Care itemEmpire Zoysia in SEQ
Mowing height25–50 mm. Use the higher end in shade and from autumn through winter
How often to mowWhen it has grown about a third above your chosen height. Regularly in the warm months, rarely in winter
FeedingOnce a year, in spring, with a slow-release lawn fertiliser. Don’t feed in winter
Watering once establishedDeep soak only when the lawn shows stress. Its deep roots let it get by on rainfall much of the year
ShadeMedium (40–50%). Needs at least 4 hours of direct sun. See our shade guide
Wear and recoveryTough and dense, with highly branching runners. Recovers well, but more slowly than couch
Seed headsPurple, non-fertile seed heads in early spring are normal
ThatchLow. Routine dethatching usually isn’t needed

Mowing Empire Zoysia

Empire’s recommended mowing height is 25–50 mm. Within that range, choose a height to suit the spot and the season:

  • Full sun in the growing season: anywhere in the range works. The lower end gives the neatest finish but means mowing more often.
  • Part shade: keep it at the higher end. The extra leaf helps it make the most of the light it gets.
  • Autumn into winter: move up to the higher end of the range and leave it there until spring.

Follow the one-third rule: never take off more than a third of the leaf in one mow, and bring an overgrown lawn down over two or three cuts. Empire grows more slowly than couch, so mow when it has grown, not by the calendar.

You may see “2–4 mows a year” quoted for Empire. That figure is for roadside and erosion-control work where the grass is left long. A home lawn kept at 25–50 mm needs mowing through the growing season.

Reel or rotary mower?

A reel (cylinder) mower gives the cleanest finish on zoysia’s fine, dense leaf, especially at the lower end of the range. A rotary mower is fine at the middle to higher settings most home lawns use. Either way, keep the blade sharp, because blunt blades tear the leaf and leave grey tips.

Don’t scalp it going into winter

Scalping, or cutting down into the brown runners and stems, does the most harm in late autumn, when there is no growing season left to recover. The lawn then sits thin until spring and lets winter weeds in. Keep the mower on a high setting from autumn.

Short clippings from regular mowing can be mulched back in, as Empire is a low-thatch grass. After a long gap between mows, catch them so clumps don’t smother the lawn.

Feeding Empire Zoysia in SEQ

Empire needs far less fertiliser than couch or kikuyu. The recommendation for the variety is one feed a year.

  • When: in spring, once the lawn has greened up and is growing again. Water it in after spreading.
  • What to look for on the label: a lawn fertiliser marked slow-release or controlled-release. Check the N-P-K figures on the pack. Nitrogen (N, the first number) drives leaf growth and colour, and a slow-release form feeds the lawn gradually instead of all at once. Apply at the label rate.
  • Winter: don’t feed. The grass is barely growing and can’t use it.

Avoid quick-release, high-nitrogen products in summer heat, as they can burn the leaf. Seaweed products such as Seasol are plant tonics rather than fertilisers, so they don’t replace the yearly feed. New turf waits until weeks 4–6 for a slow-release starter fertiliser, as in the starter care plan.

In humid weather, an orange, powdery rust on the leaf usually means the lawn is short of nutrients. It is mostly cosmetic, but check the lawn had its spring feed.

Watering an established zoysia lawn

Empire’s deep root system means that, once established, it can largely survive on rainfall. In a normal SEQ summer the storms usually do the watering for you. The dry stretch from late winter into spring is when it’s most likely to need a drink.

  • Water when it asks for it: the leaf dulls to a blue-grey, starts to fold or roll, or footprints stay flat instead of springing back.
  • Water deeply, then leave it: a long soak that wets the root zone encourages deep roots. Light daily sprinkles grow shallow ones.
  • Water early in the morning: evening watering leaves the leaf wet overnight, which invites fungal disease in humid weather.

New turf needs regular water for the first few weeks, so follow watering new turf. For dry-year planning, see drought-tolerant turf for Brisbane.

Runners, spreading and repairs

Yes, zoysia has runners. Empire’s runners are highly branching and it spreads quickly compared with other zoysias, which gives it good wear recovery. It is still slower than couch. Runners grow mainly from spring to autumn and slowly in winter, so a bare patch left going into winter usually stays bare until spring. The runners also creep into garden beds, so trim the edges in the growing season.

Patching with Empire rolls

For patches bigger than a dinner plate, or anything you want fixed before winter, patch-returfing is quicker than waiting:

  1. Cut the damaged area out square with a sharp spade, taking the old roots with it.
  2. Loosen the soil and top it up with under-turf soil so the new turf will sit flush with the lawn around it.
  3. Lay the Empire pieces tight against the edges and firm them down.
  4. Water them as you would new turf until they root in, then treat them like the rest of the lawn.

Our Empire Zoysia turf is $15.50/m². We cut it to order at Woodford, so a patch matches the lawn you already have from us.

Seed heads on Empire Zoysia

In early spring, Empire sends up small purple seed heads. This is normal. They are non-fertile, so you can’t seed a lawn from them. Mow them off at your usual height, and don’t drop the mower to chase them.

Seed heads at other times of year usually mean the lawn is stressed, for example from dry soil, poor soil or low nutrients. Check your watering and feeding. Empire is sold as turf, not seed, and grass seed vs turf in Queensland explains why.

Empire Zoysia in shade

Empire has medium shade tolerance, around 40–50%. That is better than couch and kikuyu, but not as good as Sir Walter buffalo. Turf Queensland ranks buffalo first and zoysia second for shade. It advises at least 4 hours of direct sun, ideally between 10am and 2pm, and mowing a little higher in shade. Our shade-tolerant turf guide compares all three of our varieties.

Weeds, grubs and armyworm in zoysia

A dense Empire lawn crowds out most weeds, which get in where it is thin, scalped or shaded. If you use a herbicide, check that the label lists zoysia as a safe turf, and follow its rate and temperature limits. Hand-weed turf under six weeks old.

Empire is less susceptible to lawn grubs, but not immune. Watch for patches that brown off suddenly from late spring to autumn, especially after storms. Our lawn armyworm guide explains how to confirm the pest, and grubs, diseases and weeds covers the other common problems.

Empire Zoysia vs Zoysia tenuifolia (“no-mow” or Korean velvet grass)

They’re both zoysias, but they aren’t the same grass and they do different jobs. Empire is a variety of Zoysia japonica, grown as a lawn you mow, walk and play on. Zoysia tenuifolia is a different species, sold as Korean velvet grass or “no-mow” grass. It has a very fine leaf and, left unmown, grows into soft humps and mounds. It is mainly used as an ornamental groundcover, such as between pavers or in feature gardens, rather than as a family lawn.

The care in this guide is for Empire. We grow and supply Empire Zoysia. We don’t supply Zoysia tenuifolia.

A year of Empire Zoysia care in SEQ

SeasonMowingFeedingWateringWatch for
Spring (Sep–Nov)Mow more often as it greens up. Mow off seed heads at your usual heightThe yearly slow-release feedOften the driest time, so deep soak when stressedSeed heads (normal), early weeds
Summer (Dec–Feb)Peak growth. Follow the one-third ruleNone needed. Avoid quick-release nitrogen in the heatStorms often do the job. Water early morning if dryArmyworm and grubs, rust if the lawn is hungry
Autumn (Mar–May)Move to the higher end of 25–50 mm. No scalpingNone neededLess often as it coolsWinter weeds starting
Winter (Jun–Aug)Rarely. Keep it at the higher endNoneOnly in a long dry spellSome colour loss after frost, which comes back as it warms

Empire is dormant in winter but holds its colour well. In frosty hinterland spots it may brown off after a frost, then regenerate once it starts growing again. For care across all our varieties, see the year-round lawn care plan and our seasonal turf care guide.

Frequently asked questions

What height should I mow Empire Zoysia?

Between 25 and 50 mm. Use the higher end of that range in shade and from autumn through winter.

How often do you mow zoysia in summer and in winter?

Mow when it has grown about a third above your chosen height. That’s regularly through the warm, wet months, and only occasionally in winter, when Empire barely grows. It needs far less mowing than couch.

When should I fertilise Empire Zoysia in Brisbane?

Once a year, in spring once the lawn is growing again, using a slow-release lawn fertiliser at the label rate. Don’t feed in winter. On new turf, wait until weeks 4–6.

Does zoysia grass have runners, and does it spread?

Yes. Empire’s runners are highly branching, so it repairs itself. It spreads more slowly than couch, and mostly in the warm months.

Why does my zoysia lawn have seed heads?

Empire produces purple, non-fertile seed heads in early spring, which is normal. Mow them off at your usual height. Seed heads at other times usually point to stress, such as dry soil or low nutrients.

Is Empire Zoysia a buffalo grass?

No. Empire is a zoysia (Zoysia japonica). Soft-leaf buffalo such as Sir Walter is a different grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum). Our Empire Zoysia vs Sir Walter buffalo guide compares the two.

Is Empire Zoysia the same as Zoysia tenuifolia or no-mow grass?

No. Zoysia tenuifolia, also called Korean velvet or “no-mow” grass, is a different species that grows into soft mounds and is used mostly as an ornamental groundcover. Empire is a lawn grass that you mow. We grow Empire, not tenuifolia.

What is the disadvantage of zoysia grass?

It is slower than couch to establish and to recover from wear, so bare patches take longer to fill in. It also needs more sun than Sir Walter buffalo. In return, it needs less mowing, water and fertiliser.

How long does new zoysia turf take to root?

In the warmer months, Empire is usually rooted enough for its first mow at about 2–3 weeks. In winter it can take 4–6 weeks or more. Our guides to when to mow new turf and watering new turf cover the first weeks.

Patching, extending or starting an Empire lawn?

If you’re patching or extending an Empire lawn, the turf calculator works out the square metres you need. Empire Zoysia is $15.50/m², cut fresh at Woodford and delivered across Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. If you’d rather someone else looked after it, our Brisbane lawn care services can help.

Still deciding whether zoysia suits your yard? Compare Empire Zoysia and Sir Walter, and check how much sun you get with our shade-tolerant turf guide.

Ready to order turf?

Fresh-cut turf from our Woodford farm, delivered across Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. Work out your area and price in the turf calculator.

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